All the wheels we get in for restoration get a through cleaning first before we even examine the wheel to make sure it’s a good candidate for a restoration. Some wheels are just so far gone there is nothing we can do for them. Everyone loves the parts from the west like here in Arizona, but not for plastic or rubber pieces. The heat is so hard on these parts. They turn them into dust. Wheels from this area have so many spider web cracks in them the wheel will never hold any kind of restoration. We don’t want to take your hard earned money for a product that will just crack again in just a matter of weeks and our good name means way to much to us. We have been mentioned in Mustang Monthly, Haggerty and Hemmings News not to mention a number of other magazines for a reason, we take pride in everything we do and stand behind our work with a 2 year guarantee.
After we’ve decided your wheel is a good candidate, we bead blast all the metal and some of the plastic that we can’t get in to sand. This assures good horn contact and good adhesion for the dyes and fillers. We then fill all cracks by plastic welding them. After the weld, if the crack was bad enough, we will use a fiberglass webbing and then use an epoxy resin to clean up any small imperfections left from the welding and fiberglass. (note: even if you don’t choose us to restore your wheel, make sure the company you do choose plastic weld the cracks and uses fiberglass to hold the crack from coming back. Any and all fillers used to fill cracks will crack again sooner or later. We speak from experience. We’ve tried them all and even challenged companies to come up with something that will hold and they have yet to do it.)Next we sand smooth the plastic and any filler that was used.
We next use a plastic primer to fill and clean up the sanding marks. Next we cut in the woodgrain. Over the years most of the woodgrain texture on wheels have smoothed out from use. We use a tool to cut the texture back into the wheel. We next put on the woodgrain finish. This is done by using 4 different wood plastic stains. We have two finishes we do. One is a lighter brown finish, this is called teak by most people. We then have the darker walnut finish that was used on all the wheels from late 1968 through 1973. This way Ford could use the same color wheel on all their models, Cougars, Torino, T-Birds and even their Lincoln. Remember, your steering wheel was made by different vendors than your wood dash and will not or should not match your dash. If you want to send a piece of your dash to match your wheel to, we can do that for you but it’s not correct and it will cost extra. Our wheels have won so many awards and we’ve had People say our woodgrain looks more like real wood than wood:) While nothing can match an original finish, our finish is the closest you can get and will stand up to even the most strictest judging. Our next step is to spray the rear color dye. After the color has dried we add the chrome outer band. Once all this is done the wheel has a 3-4 coats of clear polyurethane finish applied. We let this dry and color sand and buff to a beautiful finish. Now the wheel is ready for the horn switch, pad and the next car show.
We give a full two year guarantee on all our work!